Some of our most popular blogs have been about Topsoil, Firewood, and Planning for Spring. Other blogs have been about Permit Processes, Sales Processes, Lawn Renovation, Snow Plowing, and Mulching, just to name a few.

Today I just wanted to let you know about some blogs that I’ll be posting in the future:

Cleaning & Sealing of your brick pavers
Polymeric Sand vs. Fine Sand
Building your own retreat space
Permits & the many new regulations for a lot of the villages in the Chicagoland area

I’m looking forward to continuing posting blogs.

If you have a topic or subject you’d like me to discuss regarding landscaping or landscape materials, please don’t hesitate to submit it to me via my web site at www.agvangundy.com.

Planting your bulbs should be done now. Bulbs are a great way to add early color to your landscape and, depending on type of bulb and depth of planting, will keep the color coming throughout the growing season. A little planning and research will ensure your success. Probably the first thing you should know is what zone you live in. Here in the Chicago area, we are in zone 5. Zones 4 & 3 are to our north and 6 – 10 are to our south. Knowing what zone you’re in will help determine the best bulbs for your area and the bloom time.

There are a wide variety of options when it comes to selecting which bulbs to plant. These are a few of the things you should consider before purchasing/planting your bulbs:
1. Color Scheme
2. Area (Is it sunny? Is it shady? Is it a combination?)
3. Bloom Time
4. Height of the Plant
Once your decisions are made, head to your local supply store and purchase your bulbs.

To plant your bulbs, prepare the area by tilling the soil so that it is easier to plant in. Mixing a little compost with the soil will help soften the soil and add additional nutrients (check out our blog dated 4/28/10 on different types of soils).

Many people choose to use a drill with a “tulip” bit to assist them in digging individual holes for the bulbs. Others choose to dig a “trench like” area to place the bulbs in at once; still others choose to dig individual holes with a tulip spade or even dig by hand. The depth of the hole or holes is usually listed on the bag or container that the bulbs came in. Also, usually listed, is the recommended distance between each bulb.

Place the bulb in the hole(s) root side down and cover with topsoil. Moisten the soil and tamp lightly.

That’s all there is to it. Now just wait for early spring for the first of the bulbs to emerge.

Fall Clean Ups should also be done between now and the end of November. A good fall clean-up should consist of at least removing and disposing of fallen leaves and other debris collected in planting beds and in your lawn area. Here at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. we would also recommend a core-aeration and installation of a layer of mulch. The core aeration will help loosen the soil and make it easier to accept the fall application of fertilizer. If you are going to put down any herbicide or weed killer, do not overseed at this time as the seed will not germinate properly. The installation of mulch is a good idea as it will help retain moisture and root zone temperature in your planting beds over the winter months.

Finally, with your outdoors ready for winter – make sure you’re stocked with ready to burn firewood from A.G. Landscape Materials. There are several different types of firewood; however we sell Oak and Mixed. We sell by the Face Cord, ½ Face Cord, 60 pieces & 30 pieces. We deliver to your home (in the Chicago Area) and stacking services are also available.

Check out our website @ www.agvangundy.com for more information regarding firewood or any other products & services we offer.

There is much to say about fertilizers and herbicides. Since the time I started A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. nearly 30 years ago, my opinion on fertilizers and herbicides has swayed back and forth many times. For about the past 10-12 years though, I feel that the use of chemicals in the landscape is greatly overdone and the marketing of these chemicals and the companies that spread them has created a sense that if you don’t have 5 or 6 applications of chemicals a year, you won’t have a great lawn. In my opinion, for most lawns, you should not need more than 3 applications per year. These applications would be: a good balanced fertilizer in March or April, a fertilizer with herbicide that kills weeds by contact in May, and a late summer/early fall treatment. More applications than that, I feel, causes additional fertilizer and chemicals to “run off” and end up in our streams and rivers. I believe in using balanced fertilizer with a good over-seeding program that promotes root development. Without getting into specifics, usually there are three (3) numbers on a bag of fertilizer (like 12-12-12 or 28-6-6). A high first number (over 20 for example) usually promotes a faster growth rate and some “greening”. I feel that it is just as important to develop root growth and that a fully healthy plant will, in time, look just as great and most likely use less water as well. This means that the first treatment for most lawns that are basically healthy should be a 12-12-12 or 14-14-14. A slow release type is best, if the weather stays cool in early spring.

I often over-seed during the middle or end of April, so I do not use a fertilizer with pre-emergent or regular herbicides. I only use these chemicals in a weedy situation or if there is bountiful crabgrass. As we get into May, and the Dandelions and other weeds begin to show in earnest, I then use a fertilizer with herbicide added.

Most commercial solid/granular herbicide based fertilizers must be drop-spread onto a “wetted” or “dewy” lawn so that the herbicide sticks to the leaves of the weed and can be absorbed into the plant. Please note to make sure that you read the recommended spreading rates for your application on the bag and do not exceed their recommendations, as this may cause a chemical burn to your lawn. If your lawn has a severe weed problem, using a solid fertilizer again and spraying a liquid weed killer may be the best option for you. Many liquids come in a bottle ready to attach to a hose and spray across the lawn. Please refrain from spraying on windy days, as this may force the chemicals to “over-spray” onto any ornamental plants that you or your neighbors may have adjacent to the lawn.

Finally, in late summer or early fall apply a balanced fertilizer similar to 12-12-12. This strengthens the lawn to go into the winter season. I do not recommend a super late application. I feel that this just runs off and that little benefit, if any, comes from it since I highly suggest a late March/early April fertilizer application.

For most applications this program should work. It does for my own home. When I do get that stray weed or two, I spray them singularly with a hand held or pump sprayer instead of a “blanket” spreading. I believe that this is easier on the environment.

Following these simple and easy steps should lead you to a good lawn. Sometimes though, thru negligent or otherwise, a complete removal and reinstallation of sod or new seeding may be required. This can be a large task to undertake and you may want to call a company, like A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. or A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. for guidance and/or assistance with material selection. Many times, I feel that sodding is faster and easier in the long run. The “speed” can be a big benefit if you have dogs or children as it usually only requires watering to get it established. However, a complete regrade is usually required along with the removal and disposal of the existing lawn/turf. Sodding’s largest con is that the up front costs can be higher than seeding and in high shade areas may have only temporary success. Overall, though these costs are overcome in less time and re-work or touch ups in seed starting.

For those of you considering seed and have the 20-35 days to establish a lawn, the seed benefits are a lower initial cost, less hard labor to install and the seeded lawn conforms to the area planted. Generally, I feel that seed lawns initially use less water, but that increases over time to equal with the sod.

Both seeding and sodding require the same prep work with the exception that when sodding, the grade must be an inch lower at concrete sidewalks and driveways to allow for the thickness of the sod. We, at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. and A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc., believe in using an erosion control blanket or straw blanket stapled over the seed bed for sun protection and water/moisture retention. In my opinion, hay should not be used, as hay may contain weed seed and could contaminate the new lawn. We sell the blankets, staples, and grass seed and also the sod here at our yard in Roselle.

Most of the directions given here are for work in the Chicagoland area. If you are one of our readers that live in another growing area, check with your county or state horticulture extension service for information for your area.

Finally, there are many opinions out there on how to achieve a great lawn. For the most part, patience and determining a plan or course of action and then sticking to it should be your best remedy.

Step 1 – Assessment

Is the lawn bare? Is it completely bare? Does it have a lot of bare spots? Can you see if there is gravel in the lawn?

Is it full sun or shade or both? If it’s in the shade, how much of the time is in the shade? 20%, 50%, or more?

Now, if the grass looks brown/tan and lying down with new green shoots coming through it, you may have thatch build up.

Finally, does water stand on the lawn for a day or two after a rain? If yes, then you have a drainage problem that may simply require some soil spread over the effected area or you may have to refer to our blog on drain tile work or ask about grading.

Write down your assessment. In this blog, I will address most of the above problems. I will follow up with a blog about fertilizers and then maintenance and watering and patience.

If the lawn has some bare spots or is just sparse, then use a rake to loosen the soil a bit. There’s no need to rake up more than an inch or so, the raking is so that when the grass seed is applied, it has a chance to connect to softer soil and imbed itself as opposed to lying on a hard surface. If the area is too large to do by hand, then rent a power rake and set the tines to scratch the surface. Then apply the grass seed. For seeding purposes, we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. have had better luck seeding in late April/early May once the temperatures are higher. I would recommend overseeding these types of lawns as follows: 6 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. for sunny locations and 8-9 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for shady locales, depending on the amount of shade. A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. sells a great seed that is available in 5 lb. bags and 25 lb. bags. Now, if in the bare spots you see just a little gravel, don’t worry too much. But, if you see the gravel is very apparent and that it is impossible to remove for whatever reason, you may try lightly raking in a ½” – ¾” layer of Organic Compost (also available at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc.) and apply the grass seed. Increase the above seeding rates by a pound or pound and a half.

Often the lawn has this dead brown material that looks like laid down grass with some green grass shoots trying to push their way through. This is thatch. A thin layer of thatch at the soil can actually be beneficial in that it holds moisture longer. However, once it gets too heavy it “chokes out” the good lawn and should be removed. You know it’s too heavy when the grass looks dead brown. If the area is small, then this can be raked out manually with a thatch rake. After the material is disposed of, overseeding should be done at a rate again of 6 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. for sunny locations and 8-9 lbs. for shady locations.

If the problem areas are due to standing water or poor drainage and if the area can be graded by simply adding soil, then try to following these recommendations:
Spread a good, clean pulverized soil, similar to that sold at A.G. Landscape Materials. Soil that is not too light, but workable is fine. Make sure the top is soft, yet firm. Patting or lightly rolling the soil then raking the top ½” – 1” helps. Apply a good quality grass seed to the soil and lightly rake the seed into the top ¼” of soil. Address the areas surrounding the new soil area by raking out the dead grasses and seed directly in them as well. This will spread seed into a greater area so that the lawn does not have as much of a “patched” look. It is best if the entire area can be overseeded. I like to increase the seed rates in these applications by at least 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.

Please be careful with pre-emergent weed control prior to seeding as the use of these chemicals may stop or slow down grass seed germination.

Hopefully, these tips help. Please look forward to our next blogs where we will address fertilization, watering as well as a complete re-sodding of a lawn.

It is a good practice to remove large accumulation of leaves from your lawn when the lawn is completely covered.  Sometimes, you can grind/mulch the leaves into the lawn with your lawn mower and mulching attachment.  However, often, there is just too much for the mower to handle and the collecting of leaves must be done manually and then the leaves must be hauled away.

Once the leaves and dead material are cleared away, it is a good idea to apply a “timed release” fertilizer to the planting beds and the lawn.  Now is also a great time to install a coating of mulch to your planting beds.  A coating of mulch will help protect your plantings from winter weather and give your plants a better chance of surviving the winter.  The best time to do fall mulching is late fall, once the ground has begun to freeze but before the first snow fall.

I know the fall can be a busy time of year for many of us and in addition to being busy; the weather seems to be pretty volatile.  One week-end the weather is cold and rainy, the next it’s sunny and 60 degrees.  It’s hard to plan a time to get the yard work completed.  That’s why so many people rely on landscape companies to perform their Fall Clean Up.  Companies like A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. can arrange our crews around the weather during the week.  We take care of the disposal of the leaves (you don’t have to worry about leaf bags, stickers and getting the bags to the curb on a certain dates).

In addition to performing your fall clean up, we can also bring you a delivery of firewood.  That way you’ll be all set up for the winter months.  The outside will be cleaned up and ready for the spring weather and the inside can be kept warm and cozy during the cold & dreary months.