Speaking of wet weather, it’s sometimes a challenge to get things to grow. I do have some suggestions for you. Certain trees do really well in wet areas and are a great way to add to your landscape and help the environment. Fall is a great time to plant trees and now is an excellent time to start planning. I have listed a few of my favorites that I think might be worth your consideration when thinking about adding to your landscape. I have also noted the trees that do well in wet, poorly drained soil.

Arborvitae (Evergreen)
Emerald Green – Foliage is emerald green and it grows in a narrow, pyramidal
form. It grows to be approx. 20’ X 4’. Tolerates moist soils

Mission (Techny) – Foliage is a dark green and it grows in a broad, pyramidal
form. It grows to be approx. 12’ X 6’.

Nigra – Foliage is dark Green and it grows in a pyramidal form.
Appox. 12’ X 3-6’.

Birch (Deciduous)
River – Pyramidal & Oval in shape. Multi-Stemmed. Light Green Foliage in
summer. Yellow/Gold foliage in fall. Exfoliated tan/white bark.
Approx. 45’ – 30’. Tolerates wet/moist soils.

Whitespire – Pyramidal in shape. Multi-Stemmed. Dark Green foliage in
summer. Yellow foliage in fall. White Bark. Approx. 35’ X 25’.

Hawthorne (Deciduous)
Thornless Cockspur – Glossy, deep green foliage in summer. Orange/scarlet
foliage in fall. White flowers in spring followed by red fruit.
Approx. 20’ – 30’ X 20’-35’.

Maple (Deciduous)
Autumn Blaze – Bright Orange/Red fall foliage. Oval/Rounded growth habit.
Approx. 50’ X 40’. Tolerates moist soils.

Marmo – Orange/Red fall foliage. More of an upright oval growth habit.
Appox. 70’ X 40’. Tolerates moist soils.

Red Sunset – Glossy Dark Green foliage in summer. Brilliant Red/Orange fall
foliage. Upright/oval growth habit. Approx. 50’ X 40’. Tolerates moist
soils.

Superform Norway – Green foliage in summer. Yellow foliage in fall.
Upright/round growth habit. Approx. 45’ X 40’.

Pear (Non-Fruit Bearing) (Deciduous)
Chanticleer – Glossy green foliage in summer. Red/Orange to Purplish in fall.
White flowers in spring. Approx. 30’ X 15’. Tolerates moist soils.

Serviceberry (Deciduous)
Autumn Brilliance – White flowers in spring. Purple fruit. Yellow to Bright
Red fall color. Available in Tree form or Shrub (Multi-Stem Form).

Spruce (Evergreen)
Black Hills – Pyramidal Shaped with short Blue/Green foliage.
Approx. 30’ – 40’ X 25’.

Colorado Blue – Narrow-Broad pyramidal growth. Blue, prickly needles.
Approx. 30’ – 60’ X 20’.

Colorado Green – Narrow-Broad pyramidal growth. Green, prickly needles.
Approx. 30’ – 60’ X 20’.

Remember when planting a tree to dig the hole about 1.5 times the size of the root ball width and 1” – 2” shallow so that the ball of the tree creates a slight crown. When placing the tree in the hole, just set it in, larger trees may have to be rolled in. When rolling, take care not to loosen the root ball. Once it’s in the hole, stand back and take a look at it. Is it positioned the way you want it? If not, turn it until it is. Now is the time to take this step. If the root ball, has twine or string around it, cut it or loosen the string. It’s a good idea to back fill the hole with a topsoil/compost mix either by purchasing new topsoil and compost mixed or just adding compost to your existing soil or garden mix, all of which is available at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. A lot of people will come in to buy a 30 gallon container of it when they have planted 1 tree. You may want to consider sprinkling a little starter fertilizer around the tree at this point. Once the hole is back-filled, be sure to water the tree as it has been through a lot. Next, I would recommend placing approx. 2” of Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch around the tree. The mulch will help retain moisture and will help control the root zone temperature. An added benefit of installing the mulch is that it will break down over time and create an almost compost-like soil around your tree which will aid in getting nutrition to the tree. Finally, cut off the tags, sit back and watch it grow.

If you need more information or would like a quote from A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. please contact us at www.agvangundy.com or call us at (630) 295-8190.

Reference Material used: N.C. State University
Wilson Nursery
Dirr, Michael, J; Manual of Woody Landscape Plants: Their Identification, Ornamental Characteristics, Culture, Propagation and Uses

For construction projects, like patios, a good base is CA6—Grade 8, sometimes called driveway stone or crushed limestone. Grade 8 is a fractured stone with fine particles that lock together. After slightly moistening this gravel, it compacts tightly together making it a perfect choice for a base for concrete patios, driveways and walkways, for brick paving and retaining wall base. The particles are approx. ¾” in size down to dust. This is also helpful in laboring because the shovels go into the piles or can move the Grade 8 relatively easily.

At the quarry, this material is also screening separately into Limestone Screenings (Fines) and ¾” Washed or CA-7. The CA-7 is ¾ of an inch in size and is a good gravel to use in drainage or wet situations as water can pass through it and the fractured edges can lock together and still provide support for structures or vehicles. CA-7 is a good choice for under a shed in wetter areas or as a base when vehicles will be driving on it or parked on it.

Limestone Screenings make great pathways and bike trails. If you travel down the Illinois Prairie path, you’ve traveled on Limestone Screenings. The finer size is easy to smooth out. In wet areas; however, this material can change into ether a wet cement-like or a mashed potato-like consistency and may need heavier or larger rock added. In the past, many people and contractors alike used Limestone Screenings as a base for brick patios or walkways. Personally, I don’t suggest that application. My recommendation is to use 4” – 6” of compacted Grade 8 for pedestrian areas and 6” – 12” of compacted Grade 8 for vehicular areas with a 1” layer of bedding Torpedo Sand atop the compacted gravel.

There are several styles of Drainage Rock which often double as Decorative Stone. 1.5” Washed Rounds, ¾” Washed Rounds, and Pea Gravel are the most common of this type of stone. All of these stones have several uses, in addition to their outstanding drainage use; these types make excellent dog runs. Pea gravel can be used for pathways and like the ¾” Washed Rounds make an excellent ground cover below decks. This is also the very best stone to use in French Drains. The 1.5” Washed Rounds is an excellent alternative to Decorative Stone.

There are so many sizes, styles, and colors of Decorative Stone that it would be impossible to list them all or even cover the stone we sell here at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. in this blog. Our personal favorites here; however, are American Heritage, Meremac, Lava Stone, White Marble, Western Sunset, and Tiffany Pink. Each of these stones has a uniqueness that helps solve most landscape situations in their own right. Some stone, like American Heritage, are heavy and round which works well during fall leaf removals where strong blowers are used to remove leaves and the stone stays because it is heavy. Where color is the determining factor, Lava, Western Sunset, or Marble are popular choices. We highly recommend that you view the Decorative Stone in person, prior to purchasing it.

We also recommend that if you have any doubts about what type of stone or gravel to use in your project, talk to a professional. Here at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. we love to talk to our customers. We want to ensure that you get the right stone that you can drain through, build on, or highlight your landscape, to give you that unique look that sets your property apart from everyone else’s.

To prepare for planting the Annuals, I suggest tilling in an inch or two of compost into the planting bed to create a planting soil depth a minimum of about 4 inches. If the existing topsoil in your planting area is a very thin layer, then be careful not to till the compost in too deep as you don’t want to mix in or bring up the clay soil just beneath the topsoil. A good idea, if you have little topsoil and if time allows, is to scrape any available topsoil off and remove some of the clay soil and add a good Garden Mix to the bed and then till in your topsoil. Here at A.G. Landscape Materials, we sell a pre-mixed (at the pulverizer) Garden Mix which consists of 1 part Topsoil, 1 part Compost, 1 part Torpedo Sand. In our experience this combination has worked really well; however there are many different schools of thought as to just the right combination, all of which have there good points. So, we also have the capability of customizing the mix that you believe will work for you. As a matter of fact, we just delivered to one of the local Minor League Baseball teams in the Chicago area a mix that they felt would work for them.

I wish you good luck with your Annuals and hope you have a colorful spring!!

When trying to fill a deep void (over 10”) i.e. a swimming pool or larger build ups, fill dirt may be used. The “fill dirt” from A.G. Landscape Materials is a product developed from the removals of soil, sod, and land from our customers’ projects. There can be almost anything in it (including, but not limited to, soil, clay, decomposed sod, and some stone), but it is predominately soil. This material usually needs a top covering of pulverized topsoil to first be able to smooth out the top layer and then to have something better to grow into. A real plus for using fill dirt in these applications is that it is inexpensive and a heavier soil. The drawbacks are that it can be difficult with machinery to place and work with.

Rough vs. Pulverized Topsoil: First off, we at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. do not carry rough or un-pulverized topsoil. We can have it direct shipped, but like fill dirt you may need a machine or Bobcat to spread it. We prefer to sell pulverized topsoil. Pulverized topsoil is mainly a soil that is removed from farm fields and brought by truck to our location and then reloaded on trucks and sent to homes throughout the Chicago- land area. I discussed “What is Topsoil?” in a blog back on April 1st, 2010. Pulverized topsoil is relatively easy to work with and rake out since most particles are less than ¾” to 1” at most. It is also easy to plant grass seed or other plants into and can be used in either deep applications or thin applications. A con to topsoil may be that the particles can “melt” together and in deeper applications settling may occur if it was not compacted.

Garden Mix is a blend of pulverized topsoil, compost and sand. It is best to use when establishing a new garden or when adding to a garden. I have seen people use this material for lawn seeding application due to its finer granulars, drainage capabilities and being more fertile due to its compost. Although it costs more, since it is premixed, it simplifies the process. You can also plant right into it.

The compost sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is developed from a mix of organic materials and turned over and over until it becomes compost. It does not contain manure, and I feel it is easier to work with. It is best when tilled into the soil and can be used with new or existing gardens and flower beds. It also helps loosen clayish soils. Ground covers love this product. I suggest compost on most of our landscape planting projects. A con to this product is that it is light and thus has no weight carrying capabilities and may be more susceptible to wash out in extreme conditions. You should also not plant directly into only compost. It can dry out faster and the solidity of topsoil is helpful.

Most of these materials have other uses than those we discussed here. For your needs, you can e-mail or call us at (630) 295-8190 and we’ll be happy to assist you and hopefully get the right material to you so you can do your job right.

There is much to say about fertilizers and herbicides. Since the time I started A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. nearly 30 years ago, my opinion on fertilizers and herbicides has swayed back and forth many times. For about the past 10-12 years though, I feel that the use of chemicals in the landscape is greatly overdone and the marketing of these chemicals and the companies that spread them has created a sense that if you don’t have 5 or 6 applications of chemicals a year, you won’t have a great lawn. In my opinion, for most lawns, you should not need more than 3 applications per year. These applications would be: a good balanced fertilizer in March or April, a fertilizer with herbicide that kills weeds by contact in May, and a late summer/early fall treatment. More applications than that, I feel, causes additional fertilizer and chemicals to “run off” and end up in our streams and rivers. I believe in using balanced fertilizer with a good over-seeding program that promotes root development. Without getting into specifics, usually there are three (3) numbers on a bag of fertilizer (like 12-12-12 or 28-6-6). A high first number (over 20 for example) usually promotes a faster growth rate and some “greening”. I feel that it is just as important to develop root growth and that a fully healthy plant will, in time, look just as great and most likely use less water as well. This means that the first treatment for most lawns that are basically healthy should be a 12-12-12 or 14-14-14. A slow release type is best, if the weather stays cool in early spring.

I often over-seed during the middle or end of April, so I do not use a fertilizer with pre-emergent or regular herbicides. I only use these chemicals in a weedy situation or if there is bountiful crabgrass. As we get into May, and the Dandelions and other weeds begin to show in earnest, I then use a fertilizer with herbicide added.

Most commercial solid/granular herbicide based fertilizers must be drop-spread onto a “wetted” or “dewy” lawn so that the herbicide sticks to the leaves of the weed and can be absorbed into the plant. Please note to make sure that you read the recommended spreading rates for your application on the bag and do not exceed their recommendations, as this may cause a chemical burn to your lawn. If your lawn has a severe weed problem, using a solid fertilizer again and spraying a liquid weed killer may be the best option for you. Many liquids come in a bottle ready to attach to a hose and spray across the lawn. Please refrain from spraying on windy days, as this may force the chemicals to “over-spray” onto any ornamental plants that you or your neighbors may have adjacent to the lawn.

Finally, in late summer or early fall apply a balanced fertilizer similar to 12-12-12. This strengthens the lawn to go into the winter season. I do not recommend a super late application. I feel that this just runs off and that little benefit, if any, comes from it since I highly suggest a late March/early April fertilizer application.

For most applications this program should work. It does for my own home. When I do get that stray weed or two, I spray them singularly with a hand held or pump sprayer instead of a “blanket” spreading. I believe that this is easier on the environment.

Following these simple and easy steps should lead you to a good lawn. Sometimes though, thru negligent or otherwise, a complete removal and reinstallation of sod or new seeding may be required. This can be a large task to undertake and you may want to call a company, like A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. or A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. for guidance and/or assistance with material selection. Many times, I feel that sodding is faster and easier in the long run. The “speed” can be a big benefit if you have dogs or children as it usually only requires watering to get it established. However, a complete regrade is usually required along with the removal and disposal of the existing lawn/turf. Sodding’s largest con is that the up front costs can be higher than seeding and in high shade areas may have only temporary success. Overall, though these costs are overcome in less time and re-work or touch ups in seed starting.

For those of you considering seed and have the 20-35 days to establish a lawn, the seed benefits are a lower initial cost, less hard labor to install and the seeded lawn conforms to the area planted. Generally, I feel that seed lawns initially use less water, but that increases over time to equal with the sod.

Both seeding and sodding require the same prep work with the exception that when sodding, the grade must be an inch lower at concrete sidewalks and driveways to allow for the thickness of the sod. We, at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. and A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc., believe in using an erosion control blanket or straw blanket stapled over the seed bed for sun protection and water/moisture retention. In my opinion, hay should not be used, as hay may contain weed seed and could contaminate the new lawn. We sell the blankets, staples, and grass seed and also the sod here at our yard in Roselle.

Most of the directions given here are for work in the Chicagoland area. If you are one of our readers that live in another growing area, check with your county or state horticulture extension service for information for your area.

Finally, there are many opinions out there on how to achieve a great lawn. For the most part, patience and determining a plan or course of action and then sticking to it should be your best remedy.

Step 1 – Assessment

Is the lawn bare? Is it completely bare? Does it have a lot of bare spots? Can you see if there is gravel in the lawn?

Is it full sun or shade or both? If it’s in the shade, how much of the time is in the shade? 20%, 50%, or more?

Now, if the grass looks brown/tan and lying down with new green shoots coming through it, you may have thatch build up.

Finally, does water stand on the lawn for a day or two after a rain? If yes, then you have a drainage problem that may simply require some soil spread over the effected area or you may have to refer to our blog on drain tile work or ask about grading.

Write down your assessment. In this blog, I will address most of the above problems. I will follow up with a blog about fertilizers and then maintenance and watering and patience.

If the lawn has some bare spots or is just sparse, then use a rake to loosen the soil a bit. There’s no need to rake up more than an inch or so, the raking is so that when the grass seed is applied, it has a chance to connect to softer soil and imbed itself as opposed to lying on a hard surface. If the area is too large to do by hand, then rent a power rake and set the tines to scratch the surface. Then apply the grass seed. For seeding purposes, we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. have had better luck seeding in late April/early May once the temperatures are higher. I would recommend overseeding these types of lawns as follows: 6 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. for sunny locations and 8-9 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for shady locales, depending on the amount of shade. A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. sells a great seed that is available in 5 lb. bags and 25 lb. bags. Now, if in the bare spots you see just a little gravel, don’t worry too much. But, if you see the gravel is very apparent and that it is impossible to remove for whatever reason, you may try lightly raking in a ½” – ¾” layer of Organic Compost (also available at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc.) and apply the grass seed. Increase the above seeding rates by a pound or pound and a half.

Often the lawn has this dead brown material that looks like laid down grass with some green grass shoots trying to push their way through. This is thatch. A thin layer of thatch at the soil can actually be beneficial in that it holds moisture longer. However, once it gets too heavy it “chokes out” the good lawn and should be removed. You know it’s too heavy when the grass looks dead brown. If the area is small, then this can be raked out manually with a thatch rake. After the material is disposed of, overseeding should be done at a rate again of 6 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. for sunny locations and 8-9 lbs. for shady locations.

If the problem areas are due to standing water or poor drainage and if the area can be graded by simply adding soil, then try to following these recommendations:
Spread a good, clean pulverized soil, similar to that sold at A.G. Landscape Materials. Soil that is not too light, but workable is fine. Make sure the top is soft, yet firm. Patting or lightly rolling the soil then raking the top ½” – 1” helps. Apply a good quality grass seed to the soil and lightly rake the seed into the top ¼” of soil. Address the areas surrounding the new soil area by raking out the dead grasses and seed directly in them as well. This will spread seed into a greater area so that the lawn does not have as much of a “patched” look. It is best if the entire area can be overseeded. I like to increase the seed rates in these applications by at least 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.

Please be careful with pre-emergent weed control prior to seeding as the use of these chemicals may stop or slow down grass seed germination.

Hopefully, these tips help. Please look forward to our next blogs where we will address fertilization, watering as well as a complete re-sodding of a lawn.

Well, today I’m going to try and clear up some things about topsoil.
At A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. we sell pulverized topsoil that has predominately been stacked in a farm field or development. This topsoil is the excess that is not needed for the development. Weather it is our topsoil or another company’s; it is always sold from the excess. The soil is usually taken from a huge pile that was made when large earth moving scrapers skimmed the top 6” – 1’ of soil off and deposited it out of the way. Engineers calculate how much is in the pile and how much is needed to cover the areas for the development and the excess is sold off. Some is sold as pulverized topsoil, soil that is lifted into a hopper, then lead into a shredder and separator where particles/stone larger than 1” go to the side and the rest goes down a long conveyer to either a waiting dump truck or to again be stacked for later loading into trucks. For our purposes, it is loaded onto a semi-truck, shipped to our location in Roselle and deposited into our topsoil bin for distribution. That is the easy part.

The quality of topsoil depends first on the location the soil is removed from and then how deep the scrapers go into the surface. There is always a layer between the “subclay” and the top layer. This is usually entered into and some usually goes into the original pile. This year will be challenging to first find the best soil and a site that is not too far away as construction and the creation of large developments has really slowed down due to the economy. We are fortunate to be associated with suppliers that bring the best soil possible. That’s a key phrase – “The best soil possible”, because as I mentioned above, the scrapers sometimes enter a heavier soil.

Most of the state of Illinois has mineral based soil. Peat is not topsoil. It is broken down vegetation and moss, giving the soil a compost-like texture. It is considered to be an additive to topsoil not the base of it.

The consistency of the particles can have many variables. Moisture can have a lot to do with marbling that occurs when the soil travels down the conveyers. Clumping can happen when the that soil is moist is placed on a truck, dumped here and then re-handled by the tractor, placed again on a truck and then deposited on your driveway. This is what generally causes clumping. Any gardener will tell you that handling moist/wet soil will cause clumping and should be refrained from excessive handling. However, this may be impossible. We tarp our soil, but that does not guarantee the soil will remain perfectly pulverized, but it does keep clumping to a minimum.

Have you ever had topsoil brought in only to find out that after a rain or two and baking in the sun that it becomes hard? This is not an uncommon occurrence. It does not mean that the soil is clay. Since the first settlers came to this area our soils have been a challenge. Fertile but hard, that is why special plows were developed to break up the soil to farm it. Today is no different. Pulverized topsoil is great for lawns, gardens, and planting beds. For vegetable gardens it is great to mix in compost to keep the soil looser and make it more fertile. Pulverized topsoil is also easier to handle as compared to raw or rough topsoil which could have 1’ – 2’ clumps that even the best shovelers have a hard time breaking.

All in all the topsoil from A.G. Landscape, Materials, Inc. is a great product for all of your landscaping needs.

In determining which mulch is best for you, you should first decide on your goals and what stage your flower garden or planting beds are in. You should also consider how much foot traffic, if any, the mulched area will get. Another consideration is if water must flow over the area and at what rate. Are you trying to achieve a certain look using color? Are you trying to create a fertile bed and retain moisture as well as regulate a consistent soil temperature?

If your primary goal is developing a fertile planting bed, it’s my preference to use Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch. It’s the mulch we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. install in 90% of our job sites. This mulch is predominately made from the bark of hardwood trees; it breaks down over a relatively short period of time which in turn helps the soil stay looser. In our opinion, Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch also retains water better which should reduce on your watering needs. This mulch is more fine, a beautiful darker brown color and some say has a fresh compost-like aroma.

If you have a fairly established planting area and you’re focusing on color, Dyed Mulch may be an option for you. A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. carries 2 different dyed mulches. We have dyed red mulch and dyed brown mulch. This mulch is made from recycled wood scraps, such as pallets, lumber… and dyed with a vegetable dye. Heavy duty magnets remove any metals that may be in the wood prior to processing. It’s considered to be a very ecologically sound mulch. The color lasts approx. 2 years; however the color will begin to fade within the 1st year. The dyed mulch is good at retaining moisture within the soil and doesn’t break down like the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch, so it doesn’t aerate the soil as well. But, the overall look of the dyed mulch is excellent and it normally will last longer than the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch.

Cedar Mulch is yet another option available to you from A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. We carry Western Red Cedar Mulch. This is an aromatic mulch (after all it is cedar) and is a beautiful blondish mulch with a little red hue in it. Some say it resembles the inside of a cedar chest. This type of mulch doesn’t break down as fast as the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch, it will last about 2 years although the color will fade to gray over time. Cedar mulch is also considered to be fairly bug resistant/retardant, meaning that many of the “creepy crawly” bugs don’t like the cedar aroma and may stay away. Western Red Cedar Mulch is an excellent choice for aroma, aesthetic, and moisture retaining. The two biggest deterrents are that Western Red Cedar Mulch is a light mulch, so if the planting bed does have a lot of water flow through it, the mulch may have a tendency to float or move. The other deterrent is the cost, it is the most expensive mulch sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. however, a lot of people believe that the benefits outweigh the deterrents because of the value over the cost as the Western Red Cedar Mulch will last longer.

New to A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is the availability of Double Ground Hardwood Mulch. This is a fairly inexpensive mulch that is growing in popularity. It consists of tree grindings that have been shredded to a mulch consistency. It’s not as fine as the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch and the color is not normally as dark or rich; however, it’s an excellent mulch to use for retaining moisture. It does breakdown fairly quickly, therefore, it does aerate the soil, although it doesn’t seem to contain a lot of the nutrients found in Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch. Overall, it is a good, economical way to go when mulching your beds.

Finally, sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is Playground Mulch. The Playground Mulch consists of wood fiber that is shredded. It has been tested for Shock Absorbing Properties in accordance with the procedures outlined in ASTM-F-1292-99 and is used in many public playground areas. It is not normally used in planting areas.

One of the biggest questions we get is how mulch do I need? A good, simple rule of thumb is that 1 cubic yard of mulch will cover approximately 100 – 125 sq. ft. @ a 2” depth. The other popular question is how does buying in bulk compare to buying in bags? Most bags are sold in 2 cubic foot bags. There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard; mathematically it should be 13 – 14 bags would equal 1 cubic yard; however due to settling of the mulch in the bags and the fact the bags are many times not completely full, it’s virtually impossible to say with any degree of certainty how many bags it actually takes. When you buy in bulk, you also don’t have the garbage of the bags to deal with (another ecological, green reason to buy in bulk). You also see exactly what you are getting when you see the pile dumped. Another question is how much room will the mulch take up on my driveway? A good visual is that of a standard size bath tub. So, if you order 3 yards of mulch, picture 3 bathtubs on your driveway, but remember it is dumped in a pile, so it’s not like 3 bathtubs next to each other.

Your final option when it comes to mulch is to have a landscape company, such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. install the mulch for you. We can install the mulch as part of an over-all spring/fall clean up or we’re more than happy to send a crew to do just the mulching.

As always, if you have any other questions regarding mulch, please contact A.G. Landscape Materials at (630) 295-8190 or you can e-mail us through our website at www.agvangundy.com.

Finally, mulch is an excellent product both horticulturally and aesthetically. It promotes healthy, sustainable plants and provides your planting beds with that finished look.

Why not fix the problem?  It can be as simple as hiring a landscape contractor, such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. to fix it or you can do it yourself.  If you choose the latter, you will need to assess the problem and decide whether or not installing a drain tile system is the way to go.  You may decide that re-grading your yard is the option for you.  However, if you decide to go the drain tile route, the first thing you’ll need to determine is where the water is coming from and where you want it to go.  Once that is figured out, you’re on your way to a drier yard.

The first step will be to decide how you want to install the drain tile and where you want it to exit on your property and if you are connecting to the sump pump exit or downspout exits.  One thing you will need to consider before making this determination is the freeze/thaw cycles.  It may not be beneficial to hook up directly to the exits.  You may want to have a 3” – 4” space between the exits and drainage system to “free fall” the water into the drainage system.  When it comes to the actual installation, I would highly recommend using a non-perforated type of tile for the first 10 feet after passing the house and then connect a socked perforated tile for the remainder.   We’ll discuss the actual installation a little later.

O.K. now you’ve made the decisions you need, the next step is to check with your village/town to find out if a Permit is required for this type of work.  Although I’m not sure of all towns, I do know that Schaumburg does require one.  If your town does require one, apply for it as soon as possible.  They will probably require a plat of survey with any/all additions and/or outbuildings located on it, where the proposed drain system is going to be installed, the type and amount of materials you will be using and a small fee.

Once you receive your permit, be sure to contact JULIE to mark your property at least 2 business days prior to beginning your digging.  You might want to check out my blog on Locate Utilities Prior to Digging.  After your property is marked you’ll be ready to go once you have the materials you need.

Here’s a quick checklist of the recommended materials:

            1.  Drain Tile (both Socked Perforated & Non-Perforated may be needed)

            2.  Any connections you may need

            3.  Landscape Fabric

            4.  Grates for exits

            5.  Topsoil for repairing the yard from trench work

            6.  Sod and/or seed

Contact a company such as A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. @ www.agvangundy.com or at (630) 295-8190 and we can deliver the materials to your driveway or you can pick them up at our yard.

Now that you have your permit, your property is marked, and you have the materials, you’re ready to start the trench work.

The trench you need should be a minimum of 12” wide and 18” in depth.  Your pitch within the trench may vary depending on your specific needs.  Once the trench is dug and you’re ready to install the drain tile.

As I mentioned earlier, I would recommend using a non-perforated drain tile for the first 10 feet after passing the house when you’re connecting to the sump pump and/or downspout exits.  This will usually allow for the water to sufficiently pass the home and not find its way back toward the house.  This type of drain tile can be installed directly into the trench with no additional gravel or fabric. 

For the socked perforated drain tile, you will need to install landscape fabric in the trench to wrap the gravel and the tile within it.  Be sure to leave enough fabric on the sides to accommodate this.

Once you have the trench lined with the fabric, you need to install drainage rock (usually ¾” washed round gravel).  You will need to install this gravel at an approximate depth of 4” around the circumference of the socked perforated drain tile.

Now that you have the fabric liner, and the first 4” of ¾” washed round gravel installed, you can lay the socked perforated drain tile.  Finish installing the rest of the gravel and then fold over the landscape fabric.  This will inhibit the topsoil from leaching into the gravel and the drain tile.

To finish off the trench in the yard, you will want to install approximately 4” of topsoil atop the non-perforated drain tile and atop the fabric around the socked perforated drain tile.  Then install sod or seed to repair the grass in the yard.

At the exit end of the drain tile, I would suggest a minimum 3’ deep by 2’ wide exit pit.  This pit should be lined with fabric and the same gravel you used in the trench.

Normally, we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. place an elbow from the socked perforated tube to the top of the pit with a perforated grate sealing the top to allow water to exit and keep gravel out.

As you can see, installing drain tile isn’t necessarily a difficult job to perform and is a job that is absolutely a do it yourself type project, if you’re at all on the handy side.  But, as I’ve mentioned earlier, hiring a Landscape Contractor such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. is another option for you.  Contact us at www.agvangundy.com or call us at (630) 295-8190 and we’ll try to help you decide the best way to alleviate your drainage problem so that you can enjoy your spring in a dry yard.