The temperatures are rising and the snow is melting, these are sure signs that spring is almost here. However, the arrival of spring and the rains that are inevitable on top of the wet ground from the melting snow may create drainage issues for some of you. The ground becomes saturated and water may end up just sitting in the low spots in your yard. This can create a slew of problems, i.e. mowing your yard may become difficult, standing water breeds mosquitoes, and the pets and kids come back to the house wet and muddy. So, instead of enjoying spring, it becomes a hassle.
Why not fix the problem? It can be as simple as hiring a landscape contractor, such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. to fix it or you can do it yourself. If you choose the latter, you will need to assess the problem and decide whether or not installing a drain tile system is the way to go. You may decide that re-grading your yard is the option for you. However, if you decide to go the drain tile route, the first thing you’ll need to determine is where the water is coming from and where you want it to go. Once that is figured out, you’re on your way to a drier yard.
The first step will be to decide how you want to install the drain tile and where you want it to exit on your property and if you are connecting to the sump pump exit or downspout exits. One thing you will need to consider before making this determination is the freeze/thaw cycles. It may not be beneficial to hook up directly to the exits. You may want to have a 3” – 4” space between the exits and drainage system to “free fall” the water into the drainage system. When it comes to the actual installation, I would highly recommend using a non-perforated type of tile for the first 10 feet after passing the house and then connect a socked perforated tile for the remainder. We’ll discuss the actual installation a little later.
O.K. now you’ve made the decisions you need, the next step is to check with your village/town to find out if a Permit is required for this type of work. Although I’m not sure of all towns, I do know that Schaumburg does require one. If your town does require one, apply for it as soon as possible. They will probably require a plat of survey with any/all additions and/or outbuildings located on it, where the proposed drain system is going to be installed, the type and amount of materials you will be using and a small fee.
Once you receive your permit, be sure to contact JULIE to mark your property at least 2 business days prior to beginning your digging. You might want to check out my blog on Locate Utilities Prior to Digging. After your property is marked you’ll be ready to go once you have the materials you need.
Here’s a quick checklist of the recommended materials:
1. Drain Tile (both Socked Perforated & Non-Perforated may be needed)
2. Any connections you may need
3. Landscape Fabric
4. Grates for exits
5. Topsoil for repairing the yard from trench work
6. Sod and/or seed
Contact a company such as A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. @ www.agvangundy.com or at (630) 295-8190 and we can deliver the materials to your driveway or you can pick them up at our yard.
Now that you have your permit, your property is marked, and you have the materials, you’re ready to start the trench work.
The trench you need should be a minimum of 12” wide and 18” in depth. Your pitch within the trench may vary depending on your specific needs. Once the trench is dug and you’re ready to install the drain tile.
As I mentioned earlier, I would recommend using a non-perforated drain tile for the first 10 feet after passing the house when you’re connecting to the sump pump and/or downspout exits. This will usually allow for the water to sufficiently pass the home and not find its way back toward the house. This type of drain tile can be installed directly into the trench with no additional gravel or fabric.
For the socked perforated drain tile, you will need to install landscape fabric in the trench to wrap the gravel and the tile within it. Be sure to leave enough fabric on the sides to accommodate this.
Once you have the trench lined with the fabric, you need to install drainage rock (usually ¾” washed round gravel). You will need to install this gravel at an approximate depth of 4” around the circumference of the socked perforated drain tile.
Now that you have the fabric liner, and the first 4” of ¾” washed round gravel installed, you can lay the socked perforated drain tile. Finish installing the rest of the gravel and then fold over the landscape fabric. This will inhibit the topsoil from leaching into the gravel and the drain tile.
To finish off the trench in the yard, you will want to install approximately 4” of topsoil atop the non-perforated drain tile and atop the fabric around the socked perforated drain tile. Then install sod or seed to repair the grass in the yard.
At the exit end of the drain tile, I would suggest a minimum 3’ deep by 2’ wide exit pit. This pit should be lined with fabric and the same gravel you used in the trench.
Normally, we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. place an elbow from the socked perforated tube to the top of the pit with a perforated grate sealing the top to allow water to exit and keep gravel out.
As you can see, installing drain tile isn’t necessarily a difficult job to perform and is a job that is absolutely a do it yourself type project, if you’re at all on the handy side. But, as I’ve mentioned earlier, hiring a Landscape Contractor such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. is another option for you. Contact us at www.agvangundy.com or call us at (630) 295-8190 and we’ll try to help you decide the best way to alleviate your drainage problem so that you can enjoy your spring in a dry yard.
