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AG VanGundy Landscape, Inc. & AG Landscape Materials, Inc. |
Posts Tagged ‘landscaping’
Saturday, May 8th, 2010
We are near the time that here in the Chicago area, people will be planting their Annuals. Today is May 7th and we are still going to experience some 31-32 degree nights this spring. So, hold off planting a little longer.
To prepare for planting the Annuals, I suggest tilling in an inch or two of compost into the planting bed to create a planting soil depth a minimum of about 4 inches. If the existing topsoil in your planting area is a very thin layer, then be careful not to till the compost in too deep as you don’t want to mix in or bring up the clay soil just beneath the topsoil. A good idea, if you have little topsoil and if time allows, is to scrape any available topsoil off and remove some of the clay soil and add a good Garden Mix to the bed and then till in your topsoil. Here at A.G. Landscape Materials, we sell a pre-mixed (at the pulverizer) Garden Mix which consists of 1 part Topsoil, 1 part Compost, 1 part Torpedo Sand. In our experience this combination has worked really well; however there are many different schools of thought as to just the right combination, all of which have there good points. So, we also have the capability of customizing the mix that you believe will work for you. As a matter of fact, we just delivered to one of the local Minor League Baseball teams in the Chicago area a mix that they felt would work for them.
I wish you good luck with your Annuals and hope you have a colorful spring!!
Tags: AG Landscape Materials, AG VanGundy Landscape, AGVanGundy.com, Do It Youself Projects, Landscape Installations, Landscape Planning, landscaping, Plant Maintenance, Roselle, Schaumburg
Posted in General, Landscape Planning, Plant Maintenance, Uncategorized | No Comments »
Wednesday, April 28th, 2010
Here at A.G. Landscape Materials we are often asked by some of customers “which dirt should I use?” or they ask about bringing in a large quantity of soil, like 15 – 20 yards. When time allows, we try to find out what the soil is being used for or if our customer is seeding, grading… We hear all kinds of answers. For example, we have removed our pool, we have drainage issues and/or we are trying to create flower beds. Hopefully this blog will address your project and assist you in deciding which material to use.
When trying to fill a deep void (over 10”) i.e. a swimming pool or larger build ups, fill dirt may be used. The “fill dirt” from A.G. Landscape Materials is a product developed from the removals of soil, sod, and land from our customers’ projects. There can be almost anything in it (including, but not limited to, soil, clay, decomposed sod, and some stone), but it is predominately soil. This material usually needs a top covering of pulverized topsoil to first be able to smooth out the top layer and then to have something better to grow into. A real plus for using fill dirt in these applications is that it is inexpensive and a heavier soil. The drawbacks are that it can be difficult with machinery to place and work with.
Rough vs. Pulverized Topsoil: First off, we at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. do not carry rough or un-pulverized topsoil. We can have it direct shipped, but like fill dirt you may need a machine or Bobcat to spread it. We prefer to sell pulverized topsoil. Pulverized topsoil is mainly a soil that is removed from farm fields and brought by truck to our location and then reloaded on trucks and sent to homes throughout the Chicago- land area. I discussed “What is Topsoil?” in a blog back on April 1st, 2010. Pulverized topsoil is relatively easy to work with and rake out since most particles are less than ¾” to 1” at most. It is also easy to plant grass seed or other plants into and can be used in either deep applications or thin applications. A con to topsoil may be that the particles can “melt” together and in deeper applications settling may occur if it was not compacted.
Garden Mix is a blend of pulverized topsoil, compost and sand. It is best to use when establishing a new garden or when adding to a garden. I have seen people use this material for lawn seeding application due to its finer granulars, drainage capabilities and being more fertile due to its compost. Although it costs more, since it is premixed, it simplifies the process. You can also plant right into it.
The compost sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is developed from a mix of organic materials and turned over and over until it becomes compost. It does not contain manure, and I feel it is easier to work with. It is best when tilled into the soil and can be used with new or existing gardens and flower beds. It also helps loosen clayish soils. Ground covers love this product. I suggest compost on most of our landscape planting projects. A con to this product is that it is light and thus has no weight carrying capabilities and may be more susceptible to wash out in extreme conditions. You should also not plant directly into only compost. It can dry out faster and the solidity of topsoil is helpful.
Most of these materials have other uses than those we discussed here. For your needs, you can e-mail or call us at (630) 295-8190 and we’ll be happy to assist you and hopefully get the right material to you so you can do your job right.
Tags: AG Landscape Materials, AG VanGundy Landscape, Do It Youself Projects, Drainage, Landscape Installations, Landscape Planning, landscaping, Lawn Care, Lawn Renovation, Plant Maintenance, topsoil
Posted in General, Landscape Planning, Plant Maintenance, topsoil | 2 Comments »
Monday, April 19th, 2010
My last blog was our starting point on helping you create a great lawn. We talked about over-seeding and power raking, what thatch is, and some other basics. Today we’re going to get into fertilizers and total lawn replacement and/or slit seeding.
There is much to say about fertilizers and herbicides. Since the time I started A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. nearly 30 years ago, my opinion on fertilizers and herbicides has swayed back and forth many times. For about the past 10-12 years though, I feel that the use of chemicals in the landscape is greatly overdone and the marketing of these chemicals and the companies that spread them has created a sense that if you don’t have 5 or 6 applications of chemicals a year, you won’t have a great lawn. In my opinion, for most lawns, you should not need more than 3 applications per year. These applications would be: a good balanced fertilizer in March or April, a fertilizer with herbicide that kills weeds by contact in May, and a late summer/early fall treatment. More applications than that, I feel, causes additional fertilizer and chemicals to “run off” and end up in our streams and rivers. I believe in using balanced fertilizer with a good over-seeding program that promotes root development. Without getting into specifics, usually there are three (3) numbers on a bag of fertilizer (like 12-12-12 or 28-6-6). A high first number (over 20 for example) usually promotes a faster growth rate and some “greening”. I feel that it is just as important to develop root growth and that a fully healthy plant will, in time, look just as great and most likely use less water as well. This means that the first treatment for most lawns that are basically healthy should be a 12-12-12 or 14-14-14. A slow release type is best, if the weather stays cool in early spring.
I often over-seed during the middle or end of April, so I do not use a fertilizer with pre-emergent or regular herbicides. I only use these chemicals in a weedy situation or if there is bountiful crabgrass. As we get into May, and the Dandelions and other weeds begin to show in earnest, I then use a fertilizer with herbicide added.
Most commercial solid/granular herbicide based fertilizers must be drop-spread onto a “wetted” or “dewy” lawn so that the herbicide sticks to the leaves of the weed and can be absorbed into the plant. Please note to make sure that you read the recommended spreading rates for your application on the bag and do not exceed their recommendations, as this may cause a chemical burn to your lawn. If your lawn has a severe weed problem, using a solid fertilizer again and spraying a liquid weed killer may be the best option for you. Many liquids come in a bottle ready to attach to a hose and spray across the lawn. Please refrain from spraying on windy days, as this may force the chemicals to “over-spray” onto any ornamental plants that you or your neighbors may have adjacent to the lawn.
Finally, in late summer or early fall apply a balanced fertilizer similar to 12-12-12. This strengthens the lawn to go into the winter season. I do not recommend a super late application. I feel that this just runs off and that little benefit, if any, comes from it since I highly suggest a late March/early April fertilizer application.
For most applications this program should work. It does for my own home. When I do get that stray weed or two, I spray them singularly with a hand held or pump sprayer instead of a “blanket” spreading. I believe that this is easier on the environment.
Following these simple and easy steps should lead you to a good lawn. Sometimes though, thru negligent or otherwise, a complete removal and reinstallation of sod or new seeding may be required. This can be a large task to undertake and you may want to call a company, like A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. or A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. for guidance and/or assistance with material selection. Many times, I feel that sodding is faster and easier in the long run. The “speed” can be a big benefit if you have dogs or children as it usually only requires watering to get it established. However, a complete regrade is usually required along with the removal and disposal of the existing lawn/turf. Sodding’s largest con is that the up front costs can be higher than seeding and in high shade areas may have only temporary success. Overall, though these costs are overcome in less time and re-work or touch ups in seed starting.
For those of you considering seed and have the 20-35 days to establish a lawn, the seed benefits are a lower initial cost, less hard labor to install and the seeded lawn conforms to the area planted. Generally, I feel that seed lawns initially use less water, but that increases over time to equal with the sod.
Both seeding and sodding require the same prep work with the exception that when sodding, the grade must be an inch lower at concrete sidewalks and driveways to allow for the thickness of the sod. We, at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. and A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc., believe in using an erosion control blanket or straw blanket stapled over the seed bed for sun protection and water/moisture retention. In my opinion, hay should not be used, as hay may contain weed seed and could contaminate the new lawn. We sell the blankets, staples, and grass seed and also the sod here at our yard in Roselle.
Most of the directions given here are for work in the Chicagoland area. If you are one of our readers that live in another growing area, check with your county or state horticulture extension service for information for your area.
Finally, there are many opinions out there on how to achieve a great lawn. For the most part, patience and determining a plan or course of action and then sticking to it should be your best remedy.
Tags: AG Landscape Materials, AG VanGundy Landscape, AGVanGundy.com, Do It Youself Projects, Landscape Installations, landscaping, Lawn Care, Lawn Renovation, Roselle, Schaumburg
Posted in General, Lawn Care, Uncategorized | No Comments »
Wednesday, March 17th, 2010
Although sometimes overlooked in importance, a fresh coat of new mulch may be just the thing needed to place that finished look to your planting beds. There are also several horticultural benefits to mulching beds. However, have you noticed the choices that are available to you? Some of the different types you may have heard of are: Premium Hardwood Bark, Double Ground Hardwood, and Dyed Wood Mulch, among others. Do you wonder what the difference is between these? Do you wonder which type is the best and/or which type to use?
In determining which mulch is best for you, you should first decide on your goals and what stage your flower garden or planting beds are in. You should also consider how much foot traffic, if any, the mulched area will get. Another consideration is if water must flow over the area and at what rate. Are you trying to achieve a certain look using color? Are you trying to create a fertile bed and retain moisture as well as regulate a consistent soil temperature?
If your primary goal is developing a fertile planting bed, it’s my preference to use Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch. It’s the mulch we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. install in 90% of our job sites. This mulch is predominately made from the bark of hardwood trees; it breaks down over a relatively short period of time which in turn helps the soil stay looser. In our opinion, Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch also retains water better which should reduce on your watering needs. This mulch is more fine, a beautiful darker brown color and some say has a fresh compost-like aroma.
If you have a fairly established planting area and you’re focusing on color, Dyed Mulch may be an option for you. A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. carries 2 different dyed mulches. We have dyed red mulch and dyed brown mulch. This mulch is made from recycled wood scraps, such as pallets, lumber… and dyed with a vegetable dye. Heavy duty magnets remove any metals that may be in the wood prior to processing. It’s considered to be a very ecologically sound mulch. The color lasts approx. 2 years; however the color will begin to fade within the 1st year. The dyed mulch is good at retaining moisture within the soil and doesn’t break down like the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch, so it doesn’t aerate the soil as well. But, the overall look of the dyed mulch is excellent and it normally will last longer than the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch.
Cedar Mulch is yet another option available to you from A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. We carry Western Red Cedar Mulch. This is an aromatic mulch (after all it is cedar) and is a beautiful blondish mulch with a little red hue in it. Some say it resembles the inside of a cedar chest. This type of mulch doesn’t break down as fast as the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch, it will last about 2 years although the color will fade to gray over time. Cedar mulch is also considered to be fairly bug resistant/retardant, meaning that many of the “creepy crawly” bugs don’t like the cedar aroma and may stay away. Western Red Cedar Mulch is an excellent choice for aroma, aesthetic, and moisture retaining. The two biggest deterrents are that Western Red Cedar Mulch is a light mulch, so if the planting bed does have a lot of water flow through it, the mulch may have a tendency to float or move. The other deterrent is the cost, it is the most expensive mulch sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. however, a lot of people believe that the benefits outweigh the deterrents because of the value over the cost as the Western Red Cedar Mulch will last longer.
New to A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is the availability of Double Ground Hardwood Mulch. This is a fairly inexpensive mulch that is growing in popularity. It consists of tree grindings that have been shredded to a mulch consistency. It’s not as fine as the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch and the color is not normally as dark or rich; however, it’s an excellent mulch to use for retaining moisture. It does breakdown fairly quickly, therefore, it does aerate the soil, although it doesn’t seem to contain a lot of the nutrients found in Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch. Overall, it is a good, economical way to go when mulching your beds.
Finally, sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is Playground Mulch. The Playground Mulch consists of wood fiber that is shredded. It has been tested for Shock Absorbing Properties in accordance with the procedures outlined in ASTM-F-1292-99 and is used in many public playground areas. It is not normally used in planting areas.
One of the biggest questions we get is how mulch do I need? A good, simple rule of thumb is that 1 cubic yard of mulch will cover approximately 100 – 125 sq. ft. @ a 2” depth. The other popular question is how does buying in bulk compare to buying in bags? Most bags are sold in 2 cubic foot bags. There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard; mathematically it should be 13 – 14 bags would equal 1 cubic yard; however due to settling of the mulch in the bags and the fact the bags are many times not completely full, it’s virtually impossible to say with any degree of certainty how many bags it actually takes. When you buy in bulk, you also don’t have the garbage of the bags to deal with (another ecological, green reason to buy in bulk). You also see exactly what you are getting when you see the pile dumped. Another question is how much room will the mulch take up on my driveway? A good visual is that of a standard size bath tub. So, if you order 3 yards of mulch, picture 3 bathtubs on your driveway, but remember it is dumped in a pile, so it’s not like 3 bathtubs next to each other.
Your final option when it comes to mulch is to have a landscape company, such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. install the mulch for you. We can install the mulch as part of an over-all spring/fall clean up or we’re more than happy to send a crew to do just the mulching.
As always, if you have any other questions regarding mulch, please contact A.G. Landscape Materials at (630) 295-8190 or you can e-mail us through our website at www.agvangundy.com.
Finally, mulch is an excellent product both horticulturally and aesthetically. It promotes healthy, sustainable plants and provides your planting beds with that finished look.
Tags: AG Landscape Materials, AG VanGundy Landscape, AGVanGundy.com, Do It Youself Projects, Landscape Design, Landscape Installations, landscaping, Lawn Care, Mulch, Roselle, Schaumburg
Posted in General, Landscape Planning, Plant Maintenance | No Comments »
Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010
Our snow plow drivers have just returned from what is probably one of the last snow events of the season. Although the snow fall was not as much as the forecasters had predicted, it was a very heavy wet snow that melted off the plowed and/or shoveled surfaces fairly quickly. This is one of the signs that spring can’t be too far away – the average temperature is on its way up; however, we’ll probably see a little more snow and some cold days/nights, but spring is definitely on its way.
When spring does finally get here and you start your outdoor projects, you need to remember that in the state of Illinois, you must contact JULIE whenever your project requires digging of any kind. It’s a simple process and one that should be done by your contractor, if you have hired one, or by yourself if you are the one doing the digging.
JULIE stands for Joint Utility Locating Information for Excavators and they provide the free service of notifying its utility members to come to your project site and mark the underground utility wires. Even if your utilities are mostly above ground, it is still an Illinois state law that you must contact JULIE prior to digging. You can contact JULIE several ways; you can call them at 811 or 1-800-892-0123 or go on line and complete an E-Request.
You need to contact JULIE at least two (2) business days before starting your digging and you must start within 14 days of your call. So, that means if you want to start your project on a Saturday, you will need to contact JULIE no later than Wednesday. Some information you will need to complete your request is:
1. Your name, address and a phone number at which you can be reached
2. The county and city/town you are digging in, if unincorporated, the county
and the area of the township
3. Location of the digging (address, cross street, subdivision, name…)
4. When you plan to start your digging
5. Section/Quarter of the property, if available.
The JULIE representative will then inform you of the utilities that will be notified. The utility member (not a JULIE employee) will then “mark” your property with paint and/or flags. It is important to remember that utilities that are privately owned or installed will not be marked and are your responsibility. Examples of these types of wiring include, but are not limited to:
1. Invisible Dog Fence Wiring
2. Electrical lines for low voltage wiring
3. Wiring to a garage or shed
4. Gas lines to a swimming pool or grill
If you have hired a landscape contractor, such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. to install your project, the contractor should be the person that calls in the JULIE locate request. Be sure to check with your contractor to ensure that this important practice is followed. It can prevent a lot of headaches down the road.
If you would like more information about JULIE and the service it provides, you can go to their website at www.illinois1call.com. The website has a lot of good information as well as the e-request form for submitting your locate request on-line.
Just remember to contact JULIE before digging & let’s hope for a great spring!
Tags: AG VanGundy Landscape, AGVanGundy.com, Do It Youself Projects, Drain Tile Work, Hardscaping, Landcape Construction, landscaping, Roselle, Schaumburg
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