Some of our most popular blogs have been about Topsoil, Firewood, and Planning for Spring. Other blogs have been about Permit Processes, Sales Processes, Lawn Renovation, Snow Plowing, and Mulching, just to name a few.

Today I just wanted to let you know about some blogs that I’ll be posting in the future:

Cleaning & Sealing of your brick pavers
Polymeric Sand vs. Fine Sand
Building your own retreat space
Permits & the many new regulations for a lot of the villages in the Chicagoland area

I’m looking forward to continuing posting blogs.

If you have a topic or subject you’d like me to discuss regarding landscaping or landscape materials, please don’t hesitate to submit it to me via my web site at www.agvangundy.com.

Planting your bulbs should be done now. Bulbs are a great way to add early color to your landscape and, depending on type of bulb and depth of planting, will keep the color coming throughout the growing season. A little planning and research will ensure your success. Probably the first thing you should know is what zone you live in. Here in the Chicago area, we are in zone 5. Zones 4 & 3 are to our north and 6 – 10 are to our south. Knowing what zone you’re in will help determine the best bulbs for your area and the bloom time.

There are a wide variety of options when it comes to selecting which bulbs to plant. These are a few of the things you should consider before purchasing/planting your bulbs:
1. Color Scheme
2. Area (Is it sunny? Is it shady? Is it a combination?)
3. Bloom Time
4. Height of the Plant
Once your decisions are made, head to your local supply store and purchase your bulbs.

To plant your bulbs, prepare the area by tilling the soil so that it is easier to plant in. Mixing a little compost with the soil will help soften the soil and add additional nutrients (check out our blog dated 4/28/10 on different types of soils).

Many people choose to use a drill with a “tulip” bit to assist them in digging individual holes for the bulbs. Others choose to dig a “trench like” area to place the bulbs in at once; still others choose to dig individual holes with a tulip spade or even dig by hand. The depth of the hole or holes is usually listed on the bag or container that the bulbs came in. Also, usually listed, is the recommended distance between each bulb.

Place the bulb in the hole(s) root side down and cover with topsoil. Moisten the soil and tamp lightly.

That’s all there is to it. Now just wait for early spring for the first of the bulbs to emerge.

Fall Clean Ups should also be done between now and the end of November. A good fall clean-up should consist of at least removing and disposing of fallen leaves and other debris collected in planting beds and in your lawn area. Here at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. we would also recommend a core-aeration and installation of a layer of mulch. The core aeration will help loosen the soil and make it easier to accept the fall application of fertilizer. If you are going to put down any herbicide or weed killer, do not overseed at this time as the seed will not germinate properly. The installation of mulch is a good idea as it will help retain moisture and root zone temperature in your planting beds over the winter months.

Finally, with your outdoors ready for winter – make sure you’re stocked with ready to burn firewood from A.G. Landscape Materials. There are several different types of firewood; however we sell Oak and Mixed. We sell by the Face Cord, ½ Face Cord, 60 pieces & 30 pieces. We deliver to your home (in the Chicago Area) and stacking services are also available.

Check out our website @ www.agvangundy.com for more information regarding firewood or any other products & services we offer.

When trying to fill a deep void (over 10”) i.e. a swimming pool or larger build ups, fill dirt may be used. The “fill dirt” from A.G. Landscape Materials is a product developed from the removals of soil, sod, and land from our customers’ projects. There can be almost anything in it (including, but not limited to, soil, clay, decomposed sod, and some stone), but it is predominately soil. This material usually needs a top covering of pulverized topsoil to first be able to smooth out the top layer and then to have something better to grow into. A real plus for using fill dirt in these applications is that it is inexpensive and a heavier soil. The drawbacks are that it can be difficult with machinery to place and work with.

Rough vs. Pulverized Topsoil: First off, we at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. do not carry rough or un-pulverized topsoil. We can have it direct shipped, but like fill dirt you may need a machine or Bobcat to spread it. We prefer to sell pulverized topsoil. Pulverized topsoil is mainly a soil that is removed from farm fields and brought by truck to our location and then reloaded on trucks and sent to homes throughout the Chicago- land area. I discussed “What is Topsoil?” in a blog back on April 1st, 2010. Pulverized topsoil is relatively easy to work with and rake out since most particles are less than ¾” to 1” at most. It is also easy to plant grass seed or other plants into and can be used in either deep applications or thin applications. A con to topsoil may be that the particles can “melt” together and in deeper applications settling may occur if it was not compacted.

Garden Mix is a blend of pulverized topsoil, compost and sand. It is best to use when establishing a new garden or when adding to a garden. I have seen people use this material for lawn seeding application due to its finer granulars, drainage capabilities and being more fertile due to its compost. Although it costs more, since it is premixed, it simplifies the process. You can also plant right into it.

The compost sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is developed from a mix of organic materials and turned over and over until it becomes compost. It does not contain manure, and I feel it is easier to work with. It is best when tilled into the soil and can be used with new or existing gardens and flower beds. It also helps loosen clayish soils. Ground covers love this product. I suggest compost on most of our landscape planting projects. A con to this product is that it is light and thus has no weight carrying capabilities and may be more susceptible to wash out in extreme conditions. You should also not plant directly into only compost. It can dry out faster and the solidity of topsoil is helpful.

Most of these materials have other uses than those we discussed here. For your needs, you can e-mail or call us at (630) 295-8190 and we’ll be happy to assist you and hopefully get the right material to you so you can do your job right.

There is much to say about fertilizers and herbicides. Since the time I started A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. nearly 30 years ago, my opinion on fertilizers and herbicides has swayed back and forth many times. For about the past 10-12 years though, I feel that the use of chemicals in the landscape is greatly overdone and the marketing of these chemicals and the companies that spread them has created a sense that if you don’t have 5 or 6 applications of chemicals a year, you won’t have a great lawn. In my opinion, for most lawns, you should not need more than 3 applications per year. These applications would be: a good balanced fertilizer in March or April, a fertilizer with herbicide that kills weeds by contact in May, and a late summer/early fall treatment. More applications than that, I feel, causes additional fertilizer and chemicals to “run off” and end up in our streams and rivers. I believe in using balanced fertilizer with a good over-seeding program that promotes root development. Without getting into specifics, usually there are three (3) numbers on a bag of fertilizer (like 12-12-12 or 28-6-6). A high first number (over 20 for example) usually promotes a faster growth rate and some “greening”. I feel that it is just as important to develop root growth and that a fully healthy plant will, in time, look just as great and most likely use less water as well. This means that the first treatment for most lawns that are basically healthy should be a 12-12-12 or 14-14-14. A slow release type is best, if the weather stays cool in early spring.

I often over-seed during the middle or end of April, so I do not use a fertilizer with pre-emergent or regular herbicides. I only use these chemicals in a weedy situation or if there is bountiful crabgrass. As we get into May, and the Dandelions and other weeds begin to show in earnest, I then use a fertilizer with herbicide added.

Most commercial solid/granular herbicide based fertilizers must be drop-spread onto a “wetted” or “dewy” lawn so that the herbicide sticks to the leaves of the weed and can be absorbed into the plant. Please note to make sure that you read the recommended spreading rates for your application on the bag and do not exceed their recommendations, as this may cause a chemical burn to your lawn. If your lawn has a severe weed problem, using a solid fertilizer again and spraying a liquid weed killer may be the best option for you. Many liquids come in a bottle ready to attach to a hose and spray across the lawn. Please refrain from spraying on windy days, as this may force the chemicals to “over-spray” onto any ornamental plants that you or your neighbors may have adjacent to the lawn.

Finally, in late summer or early fall apply a balanced fertilizer similar to 12-12-12. This strengthens the lawn to go into the winter season. I do not recommend a super late application. I feel that this just runs off and that little benefit, if any, comes from it since I highly suggest a late March/early April fertilizer application.

For most applications this program should work. It does for my own home. When I do get that stray weed or two, I spray them singularly with a hand held or pump sprayer instead of a “blanket” spreading. I believe that this is easier on the environment.

Following these simple and easy steps should lead you to a good lawn. Sometimes though, thru negligent or otherwise, a complete removal and reinstallation of sod or new seeding may be required. This can be a large task to undertake and you may want to call a company, like A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. or A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. for guidance and/or assistance with material selection. Many times, I feel that sodding is faster and easier in the long run. The “speed” can be a big benefit if you have dogs or children as it usually only requires watering to get it established. However, a complete regrade is usually required along with the removal and disposal of the existing lawn/turf. Sodding’s largest con is that the up front costs can be higher than seeding and in high shade areas may have only temporary success. Overall, though these costs are overcome in less time and re-work or touch ups in seed starting.

For those of you considering seed and have the 20-35 days to establish a lawn, the seed benefits are a lower initial cost, less hard labor to install and the seeded lawn conforms to the area planted. Generally, I feel that seed lawns initially use less water, but that increases over time to equal with the sod.

Both seeding and sodding require the same prep work with the exception that when sodding, the grade must be an inch lower at concrete sidewalks and driveways to allow for the thickness of the sod. We, at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. and A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc., believe in using an erosion control blanket or straw blanket stapled over the seed bed for sun protection and water/moisture retention. In my opinion, hay should not be used, as hay may contain weed seed and could contaminate the new lawn. We sell the blankets, staples, and grass seed and also the sod here at our yard in Roselle.

Most of the directions given here are for work in the Chicagoland area. If you are one of our readers that live in another growing area, check with your county or state horticulture extension service for information for your area.

Finally, there are many opinions out there on how to achieve a great lawn. For the most part, patience and determining a plan or course of action and then sticking to it should be your best remedy.

Step 1 – Assessment

Is the lawn bare? Is it completely bare? Does it have a lot of bare spots? Can you see if there is gravel in the lawn?

Is it full sun or shade or both? If it’s in the shade, how much of the time is in the shade? 20%, 50%, or more?

Now, if the grass looks brown/tan and lying down with new green shoots coming through it, you may have thatch build up.

Finally, does water stand on the lawn for a day or two after a rain? If yes, then you have a drainage problem that may simply require some soil spread over the effected area or you may have to refer to our blog on drain tile work or ask about grading.

Write down your assessment. In this blog, I will address most of the above problems. I will follow up with a blog about fertilizers and then maintenance and watering and patience.

If the lawn has some bare spots or is just sparse, then use a rake to loosen the soil a bit. There’s no need to rake up more than an inch or so, the raking is so that when the grass seed is applied, it has a chance to connect to softer soil and imbed itself as opposed to lying on a hard surface. If the area is too large to do by hand, then rent a power rake and set the tines to scratch the surface. Then apply the grass seed. For seeding purposes, we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. have had better luck seeding in late April/early May once the temperatures are higher. I would recommend overseeding these types of lawns as follows: 6 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. for sunny locations and 8-9 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for shady locales, depending on the amount of shade. A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. sells a great seed that is available in 5 lb. bags and 25 lb. bags. Now, if in the bare spots you see just a little gravel, don’t worry too much. But, if you see the gravel is very apparent and that it is impossible to remove for whatever reason, you may try lightly raking in a ½” – ¾” layer of Organic Compost (also available at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc.) and apply the grass seed. Increase the above seeding rates by a pound or pound and a half.

Often the lawn has this dead brown material that looks like laid down grass with some green grass shoots trying to push their way through. This is thatch. A thin layer of thatch at the soil can actually be beneficial in that it holds moisture longer. However, once it gets too heavy it “chokes out” the good lawn and should be removed. You know it’s too heavy when the grass looks dead brown. If the area is small, then this can be raked out manually with a thatch rake. After the material is disposed of, overseeding should be done at a rate again of 6 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. for sunny locations and 8-9 lbs. for shady locations.

If the problem areas are due to standing water or poor drainage and if the area can be graded by simply adding soil, then try to following these recommendations:
Spread a good, clean pulverized soil, similar to that sold at A.G. Landscape Materials. Soil that is not too light, but workable is fine. Make sure the top is soft, yet firm. Patting or lightly rolling the soil then raking the top ½” – 1” helps. Apply a good quality grass seed to the soil and lightly rake the seed into the top ¼” of soil. Address the areas surrounding the new soil area by raking out the dead grasses and seed directly in them as well. This will spread seed into a greater area so that the lawn does not have as much of a “patched” look. It is best if the entire area can be overseeded. I like to increase the seed rates in these applications by at least 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.

Please be careful with pre-emergent weed control prior to seeding as the use of these chemicals may stop or slow down grass seed germination.

Hopefully, these tips help. Please look forward to our next blogs where we will address fertilization, watering as well as a complete re-sodding of a lawn.

In determining which mulch is best for you, you should first decide on your goals and what stage your flower garden or planting beds are in. You should also consider how much foot traffic, if any, the mulched area will get. Another consideration is if water must flow over the area and at what rate. Are you trying to achieve a certain look using color? Are you trying to create a fertile bed and retain moisture as well as regulate a consistent soil temperature?

If your primary goal is developing a fertile planting bed, it’s my preference to use Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch. It’s the mulch we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. install in 90% of our job sites. This mulch is predominately made from the bark of hardwood trees; it breaks down over a relatively short period of time which in turn helps the soil stay looser. In our opinion, Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch also retains water better which should reduce on your watering needs. This mulch is more fine, a beautiful darker brown color and some say has a fresh compost-like aroma.

If you have a fairly established planting area and you’re focusing on color, Dyed Mulch may be an option for you. A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. carries 2 different dyed mulches. We have dyed red mulch and dyed brown mulch. This mulch is made from recycled wood scraps, such as pallets, lumber… and dyed with a vegetable dye. Heavy duty magnets remove any metals that may be in the wood prior to processing. It’s considered to be a very ecologically sound mulch. The color lasts approx. 2 years; however the color will begin to fade within the 1st year. The dyed mulch is good at retaining moisture within the soil and doesn’t break down like the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch, so it doesn’t aerate the soil as well. But, the overall look of the dyed mulch is excellent and it normally will last longer than the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch.

Cedar Mulch is yet another option available to you from A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. We carry Western Red Cedar Mulch. This is an aromatic mulch (after all it is cedar) and is a beautiful blondish mulch with a little red hue in it. Some say it resembles the inside of a cedar chest. This type of mulch doesn’t break down as fast as the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch, it will last about 2 years although the color will fade to gray over time. Cedar mulch is also considered to be fairly bug resistant/retardant, meaning that many of the “creepy crawly” bugs don’t like the cedar aroma and may stay away. Western Red Cedar Mulch is an excellent choice for aroma, aesthetic, and moisture retaining. The two biggest deterrents are that Western Red Cedar Mulch is a light mulch, so if the planting bed does have a lot of water flow through it, the mulch may have a tendency to float or move. The other deterrent is the cost, it is the most expensive mulch sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. however, a lot of people believe that the benefits outweigh the deterrents because of the value over the cost as the Western Red Cedar Mulch will last longer.

New to A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is the availability of Double Ground Hardwood Mulch. This is a fairly inexpensive mulch that is growing in popularity. It consists of tree grindings that have been shredded to a mulch consistency. It’s not as fine as the Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch and the color is not normally as dark or rich; however, it’s an excellent mulch to use for retaining moisture. It does breakdown fairly quickly, therefore, it does aerate the soil, although it doesn’t seem to contain a lot of the nutrients found in Premium Hardwood Bark Mulch. Overall, it is a good, economical way to go when mulching your beds.

Finally, sold at A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. is Playground Mulch. The Playground Mulch consists of wood fiber that is shredded. It has been tested for Shock Absorbing Properties in accordance with the procedures outlined in ASTM-F-1292-99 and is used in many public playground areas. It is not normally used in planting areas.

One of the biggest questions we get is how mulch do I need? A good, simple rule of thumb is that 1 cubic yard of mulch will cover approximately 100 – 125 sq. ft. @ a 2” depth. The other popular question is how does buying in bulk compare to buying in bags? Most bags are sold in 2 cubic foot bags. There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard; mathematically it should be 13 – 14 bags would equal 1 cubic yard; however due to settling of the mulch in the bags and the fact the bags are many times not completely full, it’s virtually impossible to say with any degree of certainty how many bags it actually takes. When you buy in bulk, you also don’t have the garbage of the bags to deal with (another ecological, green reason to buy in bulk). You also see exactly what you are getting when you see the pile dumped. Another question is how much room will the mulch take up on my driveway? A good visual is that of a standard size bath tub. So, if you order 3 yards of mulch, picture 3 bathtubs on your driveway, but remember it is dumped in a pile, so it’s not like 3 bathtubs next to each other.

Your final option when it comes to mulch is to have a landscape company, such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. install the mulch for you. We can install the mulch as part of an over-all spring/fall clean up or we’re more than happy to send a crew to do just the mulching.

As always, if you have any other questions regarding mulch, please contact A.G. Landscape Materials at (630) 295-8190 or you can e-mail us through our website at www.agvangundy.com.

Finally, mulch is an excellent product both horticulturally and aesthetically. It promotes healthy, sustainable plants and provides your planting beds with that finished look.

Why not fix the problem?  It can be as simple as hiring a landscape contractor, such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. to fix it or you can do it yourself.  If you choose the latter, you will need to assess the problem and decide whether or not installing a drain tile system is the way to go.  You may decide that re-grading your yard is the option for you.  However, if you decide to go the drain tile route, the first thing you’ll need to determine is where the water is coming from and where you want it to go.  Once that is figured out, you’re on your way to a drier yard.

The first step will be to decide how you want to install the drain tile and where you want it to exit on your property and if you are connecting to the sump pump exit or downspout exits.  One thing you will need to consider before making this determination is the freeze/thaw cycles.  It may not be beneficial to hook up directly to the exits.  You may want to have a 3” – 4” space between the exits and drainage system to “free fall” the water into the drainage system.  When it comes to the actual installation, I would highly recommend using a non-perforated type of tile for the first 10 feet after passing the house and then connect a socked perforated tile for the remainder.   We’ll discuss the actual installation a little later.

O.K. now you’ve made the decisions you need, the next step is to check with your village/town to find out if a Permit is required for this type of work.  Although I’m not sure of all towns, I do know that Schaumburg does require one.  If your town does require one, apply for it as soon as possible.  They will probably require a plat of survey with any/all additions and/or outbuildings located on it, where the proposed drain system is going to be installed, the type and amount of materials you will be using and a small fee.

Once you receive your permit, be sure to contact JULIE to mark your property at least 2 business days prior to beginning your digging.  You might want to check out my blog on Locate Utilities Prior to Digging.  After your property is marked you’ll be ready to go once you have the materials you need.

Here’s a quick checklist of the recommended materials:

            1.  Drain Tile (both Socked Perforated & Non-Perforated may be needed)

            2.  Any connections you may need

            3.  Landscape Fabric

            4.  Grates for exits

            5.  Topsoil for repairing the yard from trench work

            6.  Sod and/or seed

Contact a company such as A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc. @ www.agvangundy.com or at (630) 295-8190 and we can deliver the materials to your driveway or you can pick them up at our yard.

Now that you have your permit, your property is marked, and you have the materials, you’re ready to start the trench work.

The trench you need should be a minimum of 12” wide and 18” in depth.  Your pitch within the trench may vary depending on your specific needs.  Once the trench is dug and you’re ready to install the drain tile.

As I mentioned earlier, I would recommend using a non-perforated drain tile for the first 10 feet after passing the house when you’re connecting to the sump pump and/or downspout exits.  This will usually allow for the water to sufficiently pass the home and not find its way back toward the house.  This type of drain tile can be installed directly into the trench with no additional gravel or fabric. 

For the socked perforated drain tile, you will need to install landscape fabric in the trench to wrap the gravel and the tile within it.  Be sure to leave enough fabric on the sides to accommodate this.

Once you have the trench lined with the fabric, you need to install drainage rock (usually ¾” washed round gravel).  You will need to install this gravel at an approximate depth of 4” around the circumference of the socked perforated drain tile.

Now that you have the fabric liner, and the first 4” of ¾” washed round gravel installed, you can lay the socked perforated drain tile.  Finish installing the rest of the gravel and then fold over the landscape fabric.  This will inhibit the topsoil from leaching into the gravel and the drain tile.

To finish off the trench in the yard, you will want to install approximately 4” of topsoil atop the non-perforated drain tile and atop the fabric around the socked perforated drain tile.  Then install sod or seed to repair the grass in the yard.

At the exit end of the drain tile, I would suggest a minimum 3’ deep by 2’ wide exit pit.  This pit should be lined with fabric and the same gravel you used in the trench.

Normally, we at A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. place an elbow from the socked perforated tube to the top of the pit with a perforated grate sealing the top to allow water to exit and keep gravel out.

As you can see, installing drain tile isn’t necessarily a difficult job to perform and is a job that is absolutely a do it yourself type project, if you’re at all on the handy side.  But, as I’ve mentioned earlier, hiring a Landscape Contractor such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. is another option for you.  Contact us at www.agvangundy.com or call us at (630) 295-8190 and we’ll try to help you decide the best way to alleviate your drainage problem so that you can enjoy your spring in a dry yard.

Over the past few weeks, I have posted blogs on topics from Firewood Purchasing to Marking the Utilities on your Property. I hope that you have found them informative and helpful and that you use them as a point of reference when it comes to your landscaping.

The next few months will be very interesting as I plan on posting blogs relevant to specific projects you may be considering to do on your own. For instance, if your lawn really needs a make-over, look for my 5 part blog on lawn renovations; it will take you step by step on how to achieve a great looking yard. If gardening is something you’re looking forward to, make sure you check out my future blogs on planting Annuals, Fill Dirt vs. Topsoil vs. Compost, Mulching, and General Plantings. I know a lot of you will be interested in Do-It-Yourself Hardscaping Projects, so I plan on publishing blogs regarding Brick Paving, Retaining Walls and Firepits. I’ll also include blogs on Polymeric Sand vs. Jointing Sand for those installations as well as a blog discussing the maintenance of the brick work once it’s installed, specifically cleaning and sealing of the brick. There are also some misconceptions out there regarding Mulches (Hardwood, Premium Hardwood Bark, Dyed…). Hopefully, I’ll be able to clear up some of those when my Mulch blog gets posted. Many of you will experience drainage problems with the arrival of spring. Don’t get too worked up about it. One of my next blogs will take you through the process of how to solve this issue.

These are just a few of the blogs scheduled to be published during the next few weeks/months. Of course, if you have any ideas, I’d love to hear from you. You can forward the contact form found on our website at www.agvangundy.com with your ideas.

Finally, although the next few blogs will be geared toward doing it yourself, hiring a contractor such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. is always an option. Go to our website at www.agvangundy.com and forward a quote request to us and we’ll be happy to start working with you.

Here’s hoping for a great spring!!

Now that you have some thoughts & maybe some ideas, it’s time to do some investigating and educating.

You may need to educate yourself on plants that will work in your growing zone and on plants that can conform to your existing outdoor living space. Maybe you have a shady area that tends to be difficult to grow anything in or vice-versa a very sunny area that gets extremely hot during the summer days. But where do you start? A great starting place is on the internet. There are countless number of sites and forums. Other great sources are seminars, home improvement shows, your local newspaper and your library. Seminars are often held by the Morton Arboretum in Lisle, local gardening clubs, and the Chicago Botanical Gardens – you can contact anyone of those sources for schedules and topics. Home Improvement Shows are in abundance in the Chicago area, especially during the winter and early spring months, may you can attend one or two of these and pick up some literature. A lot of newspapers will have whole sections dedicated to Homes & Gardening. There’s also your local public library. Although the library seems to be a dying entity, it’s really a great source of information gathering. You can usually fine virtually everything there, from hard copy books to periodicals to internet access to local news regarding local happenings such as seminars. Finally, for those of you who want to invest a little more, most community colleges offer introductory to advanced horticultural classes, seminars and symposiums.

Once you’ve done your investigating and maybe some educating, some of you may decide you need additional help or you just don’t have the time and/or patience to incorporate your new found knowledge yourself – you may want to work with a professional landscape company, such as A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc. We love working with informed, educated clients; however, we also relish the opportunity to work with and inform clients new to the landscaping world.

Homeowners and clients aren’t the only ones needing seminars and education. We use this time of year for training, seminars and trade shows. This month we’ll be attending the largest Midwest Horticultural Show in Chicago (Mid-Am). There, we’re looking forward to seeing the latest in equipment, new growers, new materials and of course being reintroduced and reminded of some of the standards we’ve already been accustomed to. At the end of the month, a couple of us will be attending a computer class to brush up on some of old skills and hopefully learn some new applications. February will find us at another trade show and a seminar specifically geared toward Perennials. Our crews will more than likely be attending a safety class, a pruning workshop and updating licenses. Personally, one of my goals for this off season is to learn more about flagstone and topsoils.

Don’t forget that January and February are great times to do your dormant pruning. If you haven’t done so yourself and aren’t planning on doing it yourself, please contact us at www.agvangundy.com or call us at (630) 295-8190 and we’ll be happy to help you.

Spring and warmer weather are only a couple of months away. Soon it will be March and usually the snow has melted a few times, so you can get out and assess your landscape. Get your training in now, stay excited and work toward a goal.

LET’S THINK SPRING!

It’s January and although you may be looking at your just plowed driveway (hopefully plowed by A.G. VanGundy Landscape, Inc.) and happy that you didn’t have to shovel off 10 inches or snow or maybe you’re snuggling with that special someone while watching a fire in the fireplace (hopefully purchased from A.G. Landscape Materials, Inc.), it’s not too early to start thinking of the landscaping projects you put off last year or that you may want this upcoming spring.

Perhaps you have been thinking about a patio or an updated look for the front or back yard, or a new lawn or that drainage work that you think about every year. From landscape design to landscape installations, we can help. Contact us at www.agvangundy.com and complete a quote form or call us at (630) 295-8190 and we will take care of the rest. We’ll get back to you within a day or two and schedule a date and time to meet with you to go over your wants/needs for the spring.

Actually, now is a great time to start the process. The closer it gets to spring and warmer weather, the busier all landscape companies get. Landscape Sales Reps schedules are usually more open during the winter months, so you get even more personalized service and attention.

Please keep checking our blogs. Our future blogs will address issues such as Professional Installations vs. Doing It Yourself. We will also write about landscape materials, uses of the different types of materials, purchasing bulk items vs. bagged items, how to properly mulch your planting areas, install topsoil and compost as well as uses of decorative stone, differences in construction grade gavels that we sell and projects such as dog runs, drain tile work, replacing a lawn with sod or grass seed, fertilizing and even lawn maintenance, just to name some of the topics.

If you have something that you would like me to consider, share that with me on a quote form and I may give it a try.

Thank you for reading and hope you check back with us in the future.